Tambour beading

July 25, 2009 in education | 23 comments

I have only (knowingly) seen tambour beading a few times. To my untrained eye, it looks like a cross between crochet and latch hooking in execution; crochet with a hook that pierces the fabric. You crochet with the thread running on top, and beads or sequins added on the bottom. The tambour hook pierces the fabric from the top down, catch the bead, and pull the thread back up to the top of the fabric and do a chain stitch. Move the hook over the length of your desired stitch, and repeat. If you work with organza or another transparent fabric, you can see what you’re doing at least somewhat, otherwise, your bottom hand is threading the bead over the hook by feel.

I read something today that prompted me to go looking. Here’s a blog post by Cruz Barrientos, a couturier in Florida. He shows some of his early and later samples, front and back, and you can click on the pictures to enlarge. His link to Virginie Courdimanche (in Paris) doesn’t work, but here is her blog (in English). Her work is beautiful and delicate, and she has diagrams for a nice tutorial on tambour work. Barrientos also links to a Luxe.tv spot on La maison Lesage à Paris. All in French, but watching the 4:37 minutes of video rewards you with glimpses of beautiful work, work in progress, and towering shelves of beads and sequins and thread supplies I would love to see in person.

UPDATE 11/3/09: Please read the comments for more information from Robert Haven, an associate professor of Costume Technology at the University of Kentucky.  I wrote a new post about tambour beading with the information he provided.

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  1. Joann on July 25, 2009 at 7:32 pm

    I’ve tried tambour work with a regular metal crochet hook. I didn’t quite get it, but it’s an good idea. Some of the older books like Terese Dillmont from DMC describes how to do it, and has some projects

    Joann

    Reply

    1. Dulcey Heller on July 25, 2009 at 8:41 pm

      I think it could be a lot of fun to try! I certainly would be game to try it – thanks for the author to check.

      Reply

  2. tagorous on July 26, 2009 at 5:39 am

    this looks quite difficult .. but really beautiful

    Reply

    1. Dulcey Heller on July 26, 2009 at 7:23 am

      Maybe if I knew crochet, it would be easier? I’d be wanting to look at the beadwork side all the time to see how I was doing, and flipping it over. Definitely beautiful, I agree!

      Reply

  3. Sylvia on July 26, 2009 at 8:39 pm

    Hi,
    Special tambour hooks are available from Lacis by mail order. I think there might be a book or two for learning but I cannot be sure.
    Therese de Dillmont is a historic French author who wrote an encyclopedia of embroidery stitches and techniques. It is an impressive volume but it assumes that the reader has the proficiency of handwork which women in the 19th and early 20th century had. It is not really possible to learn from there if one is a beginner. I admire her encyclopedic knowledge of handwork.

    The biggest practicioners of tambour work nowadays are in India. You can get tons of tambour embroidery on clothes without beads. Some of this might be done with a sewing machine. Most sewing machines can be set up for chain stitching without using a bobbin thread. But when you add beads, you cannot fake it with a sewing machine.

    Essentially you draw the design lines on the wrong side and space your stitches on the wrong side to be even. The right side on the bottom takes care of itself. And if you should rip something, it will unravel all the way unless it is well anchored.

    A very strong and substantial embroidery stretcher ring is a must to keep the fabric drum tight at all times.

    Reply

    1. Dulcey Heller on July 27, 2009 at 8:44 pm

      Lacis was where I looked a couple of years ago when I was considering buying a hook – and I think there was a book or two as well. Therese de Dillmont sounds more like enjoying pictures for my level of experience!

      I do have a shirt (which I wear as a blazer) that I think is made in the way you are referring, by machine in India. It always garners compliments when I wear it.

      Yes, I can see how it would all unravel – chain stitch!

      I think it would be fun to try.

      Reply

      1. Sylvia on July 28, 2009 at 11:05 pm

        If you have the book The Complete Guide to Beading Techniques by Jane Davis, there is a simple tambour beading tutorial in there.

        Reply

        1. Dulcey Heller on July 30, 2009 at 7:14 am

          One of the few I don’t have! I should check it out at the library, thanks!

          Reply

  4. Robert Haven on November 1, 2009 at 8:37 pm

    I actually teach tambour beading and other French Haute Couture embroidery techniques. I just updated my website and thought you might want to check it out. To visit, just click on the links below or paste the URLs into your browser.
    Professional Portfolio
    http://web.me.com/rwhaven/Professional_/Welcome.html
    2008 Summer Bead Class
    http://web.me.com/rwhaven/Summer_Bead_Class
    2010 French Embroidery Masterclass
    http://web.me.com/rwhaven/French_Embroidery

    The technique is not really difficult to do just a bit tricky to learn. It takes some time to master the technique after that the work goes quite rapidly, which is why it is the favored technique at couture embroidery ateliers like Lesage in Paris.

    Reply

    1. Dulcey Heller on November 1, 2009 at 11:18 pm

      Robert, thanks so much for the comment! I loved the pictures and further information on your website – you have a great position at UK, and have taken some incredible courses abroad in tambour and more. I am very impressed – and impressed with what you’re doing to continue this art. Thank you!

      I can see how it could become quicker once you’re adept. I will try it sometime. Do you have a favorite book or online resource you can recommend? I’m a few states away from you and your classes.

      Reply

      1. Robert Haven on November 2, 2009 at 4:56 am

        Dulcey,
        I learned in a one on one situation many years ago from a lady who learned the technique from her grandmother in Puerto Rico. My sabbatical at Lesage last year opened up all the possibilities of the tambour techniques.

        I don’t have any instruction books and the few descriptions of the technique that I have seen illustrate the technique but nothing replaces a watchful teacher who can watch the technique and know exactly how and why the hook is snagging the fabric, thread etc.

        Give it a try, I am working at my frame just about every day. If not working on beadwork for a UK production I am doing pieces to send to competitions or just for the fun of it.

        Reply

        1. Dulcey Heller on November 3, 2009 at 9:30 am

          I can see how this technique would definitely benefit from a live teacher correcting technique. I will give it a try – it may be a while, but I will, thank you! If you ever decide to write instructions, I would be interested.

          Reply

  5. Sandy on November 3, 2009 at 1:15 am

    Hi Dulcy and Robert
    I have been following your string. I would love to learn how to tambour embroider and bought a book which is a bit complicated but has some good ideas. The tutorial above is also great.
    I am in Australia – not known for our tambour work! I have tried finding a class but think I’m just going to have to learn by trial and error.

    Reply

    1. Dulcey Heller on November 3, 2009 at 9:26 am

      Thank you for your comment! Would it be great to take a class from Robert? It is hard to find classes – he went to France! Lacis has the hooks, and where I will go when I want to learn. I would be interested in seeing what you learn, when you give it a try on your own!

      Reply

      1. Robert Haven on November 3, 2009 at 12:24 pm

        Sandy
        the best way to start on your own id to just practice first with the hook and no thread. The set screw that hols the needle should be aligned with the hoo on the needle. THIS IS CRUCIAL! Plunge the needle into the fabric , rotate it 180 degrees and on the up stroke put a slight amount of pressure on the back ( the opposite side to the set screw) of the needle ant it will slide up without snagging the thread. Practice this until you can do it without looking! Then move on to thread, then bugle beads then seed beads and sequins. Dont give up.
        i think I included a small clip of the technique in the masterclass web page if not let me know and I can send one . I have clips of the surface movements and from underneath. They might help you. Shoot me an email with questions anytime

        Reply

  6. Sandy on November 13, 2009 at 1:20 am

    Thanks Robert
    I’ve had a look at the masterclass and it’s pretty good. I’ve also found another book by Jane Conlon on embellishments on fabric which is much easier to udnerstand.
    I like the idea of practicising without thread and beads
    Will let you know how I go.
    Sandy

    Reply

    1. Robert Haven on April 3, 2010 at 11:19 am

      Sandy
      There is an outside possibility I may be coming to Australia to teach tambour beading, perhaps as early as next year sometime. A couple of ladies I met last year at he RSN ( frantically stitching trough a concentrated certificate course together) are sniffing around their various needlework guilds/groups to see if there would be interest in having me travel there for a master class or two. Still very tentative , so stay tuned!

      Reply

      1. Sandy on April 11, 2010 at 5:15 pm

        Hi Bob
        thanks for the update. I would be very interested in a masterclass. As you know Australia is HUGE but a masterclass on the eastern seaboard would be fine for me. Karen Torrisi, a professional beader from Sydney, has also offered to come to Brisbane (where I am) to teach some ladies so by next year a masterclass would be great.

        Reply

        1. Antonia on April 13, 2010 at 1:10 am

          Hi Sandy:
          I am looking around on the net about learning Tambour Beading. I am in Brisbane. I heard that the Embroiderers Guild Qld will ask Karen Torrisi to teach if they get enough participants I expressed my interest to the Guild. So hope the number is right and classes will be held.

          Reply

  7. Bob Haven on January 24, 2010 at 9:18 pm

    Hey all
    I have embraced the 21st century and have posted a “Tambour Beading” close up video in Youtube. I did it for my UK (Univ of KY) fabric embellishment class this semester but it is available to anyone. I think it helps remove some of the mystery of what is really going on with the stitch process. It is far clearer and more close up than the short clips on the master class web site. Take a look and let me know what you think.

    Give it a try…you know you want to! Enjoy
    Bob

    Reply

  8. Dick Holdsworth on April 1, 2010 at 6:27 am

    Hi Everyone
    Sorry to be slow off the mark but for anyone who is interested and will be in England in July, Kate Sinton is offering a class in the Elements of Tambour Work at Winchester.

    Check the website:
    http://www.embroiderynow.co.uk

    Dick

    Reply

    1. Dulcey Heller on April 3, 2010 at 7:06 am

      Thank you, Dick! That looks like a wonderful series of classes, with excellent teachers.

      Reply

  9. Dick Holdsworth on April 3, 2010 at 10:26 am

    Thanks for your kind words Dulcey.

    I have to emphasise that Kate Sinton’s particular class is
    thread tambour, not beads and is definitely for beginners who, we hope, will want to go on to raise their game.

    Dick
    embroiderynow.co.uk

    Reply

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