SAORI Three

This is the warping board that my husband made for me. Side-to-side, the measurement between the pegs is a meter. I want a really short warp for this project because of the amount of yarn I have in these colors; it should be a wearable scarf. The warp cross between the two pegs in the center is the one that keeps the warps in my intended order. Nearby, I have scribbled onto a piece of paper: S L S L S S L S – and so forth. (Shiny, gLitter, Shiny, gLitter…) I’m trying for some irregular log cabin design, alternating between a shiny yarn, and one that looks like it has bits of tinsel. The portion of the warp that is log cabin is governed by the glitter yarn, as there’s just one skein, and I’m using it doubled everywhere as it’s very fine; I have more of the other three yarns. I’ve done calculations on the area that it will cover, and that math is governing the length and width of the warp.

Here’s the final warp, cut off the warping board and chained and braided. The shiny yarn is cotton and rayon, the green yarn is angora and wool and nylon, and the thick-and-thin dark purple yarn is wool and acrylic. The fine, fuzzy purple with the bits of tinsel is mohair and nylon and polyester.

On the loom!

The subtle log cabin; subtle in contrast but not color. I’ve alternated “shiny” and “glitter” in portions of the weft, with irregular widths. The warp of the two colors is subtle as well. Next time I do a log cabin, I will use more contrast.

Complete!

SAORI Two complete, the caterpillar edition

This yarn is AWESOME. I am having so much fun seeing what patterns emerge, just weaving back and forth. There’s no planning, and most of these pattern changes are not because of a new bobbin of warp.

Argyle!

Solid stripes with something that makes me think of corduroy.

More stripes, with an argyle interlude.

Look at how even and planned it appears, and then poof! It becomes another pattern.

This is just so much fun.

The end. I used one skein of this yarn, plus a little more from a second to be able to use all the warp. I have another full skein of this yarn as well. I highly recommend using yarn with a short color repeat like this, and just going along for the ride to see what happens when you weave.

This is 4″ wide and 56″ long, and thick fabric. This was really great fun to weave. I have no clue what I will do with it.

Next warp is wider and using mixed yarns, including fuzzy and thick-and-thin yarn, and a planned pattern. I get to try out my warping board…

Warping a SAORI loom

Here’s my process pictures for my first time fully warping my SAORI loom with the “chair warp” from my last loom-related post. First, I remove the beater and flip it over, resting the legs of the beater on the harness of the loom. I undo the braids from my prepared warp, and use the warp cross to keep the warps in order, and then cut the colored yarn I used to keep the cross intact (visible in the picture below). There is a tool that is a series of posts and grooves to hold this as well. I don’t have it. I’m wondering how I – or it! – can hold all the warp if I were to warp its full 23″ width. This is 56 warps. The loom holds 300.

This is sleying the reed. I use the reed hook to push the warp through the dents.

Progress.

I’ve tied bundles of warp threads together below the reed, and turned over and reinstalled the beater.

Now threading the heddles. I’m sitting at the back of the loom, holding a bunch of warp threads in my left hand, interlacing them between my fingers. I can’t keep it interlaced like this; it keeps sliding off my pinky, but I can keep it solidly between my first and middle finger. Inside my left hand is a bunch of heddles, from both the front and back harnesses. As I use up the warp in my left hand, I grab more warp and more heddles.

Here’s using the hook to grab the next warp to pull through the heddle. Standard warping is to alternate from the front and back harness (and one warp per dent in the reed), which is what I’m doing here. I can put more than one warp through the same dent and heddle. I can skip dents. I can do two front or two back heddles in a row. I wanted to try a plain warp first, so one warp per dent and heddle, and alternating front and back harnesses it is!

Done.

As I’m looking back at the instructions, I see I’m supposed to be tying bundles of warps together as I complete warping. Oh.

Pulling the warp through to the back of the loom, with the tying rod resting on top of the warp.

I have to use two hands for the rest of this (and a knee at one point), so no pictures. Here’s the frustration picture. I’ve tied the warp onto the tying rod (the diagonal dowel you can see at the upper left), and I’ve got to try to roll it onto the warp roller while holding onto the warp at the front of the beater. So I’m sitting cross legged on the floor to the left of the loom, my right hand is holding the warp at the front of the beater, I’m rolling the warp roller with my left hand, and pressing the warp control pedal with my left knee. Looking closely at the pictures in the book now, I see the warp control pedal is disengaged by the angle of the pedal – but it’s not written in the instructions to do so. I will have to try that next time. The warp roller fell off twice because I didn’t have the metal widgets correctly on it.

That’s done, now to attach the warp to the front clipping tying rod. I just have to put this strip of wood into the slot in the dowel, catching the warp.

Warped! Or at least I think so.

Weaving right along. Isn’t this yarn great/terrible? Microfiber chenille, from one of two Craiglist yarn lots I purchased for very little money. I keep thinking of caterpillars.

So, I try to advance the warp and it’s not working. I check the pedal and advance the warp, more than once. Also, why is the beater hitting what I’m weaving? It’s because I need the warp to go up and over the front beam. I correct this by removing the clipping tying rod and reinstalling it correctly. Now I’m making some sort of animal skin print with my caterpillar yarn!

Okay, off to finish this warp.

Chair warp

I received my loom and assembled it on a Thursday in January. I had a mid-morning appointment on Friday, and the rest of the day off. I didn’t want to begin weaving before I had to leave, so I decided to try to prepare a warp. I used some heavier cotton than was pre-warped on the loom, a cream color that I had thrifted. Generally speaking, unless you are weaving something very light, you want to warp with a darker color. My thinking was that I wanted something I didn’t care about to practice the process of warping, using one color and a short length. Meet the chair warp, and my Christmas tree that was up until mid-January. I didn’t even measure, I just put the chairs as far apart as I was able without moving furniture. I think this was about 7′.

Looking at the SAORI book, it shows the use of a warping board. I didn’t purchase one; my husband made one for me later. In a broad overview, a warping board is a frame of wood with pegs on the uprights, and you zigzag the warp across and down to the length desired. The SAORI warping board is a meter across, so it’s a way to measure the length of the warp too. At the beginning, before the first full zigzag, you pass over and under a couple of pegs. In the next pass, you start by going under, then over. This keeps the warps in the order you want to install them on the loom. Below is using the chair leg to create just one cross.

You tie the cross to keep the threads in order, and in a few other places to keep the bundle of warps together.

I cut the yarn on the wooden chair leg, and chained the warp to keep it neat.

When I got to the cross, I cut the warp loop on the metal chair, and then braided each half of the warp after the cross, tying the ends. This is one 1 4/10 ounce skein of cotton crepe “fashionable dress yarn” by Unger from Holland. (Holland! How old is this yarn? And 4/10 oz?) I think I counted 38 warps, so I get to practice threading 38×2 times. I think I’ll try for accuracy this time, to see if I can.

SAORI One complete

This is 16.5′ of SAORI sampler, 11″ wide. I had a lot of length to try different techniques with these four yarns – and there are many more things I can try.

Next up on the loom is a simple sample warp, with some fun/terrible yarn as the weft. It gives me the chance to warp the loom with a consistent yarn before trying fuzzy and irregular ones.

SAORI One progress

So, I’ve been beading and weaving lately. Here’s how I’m doing with the weaving part. I like this section.

This is what happens when you wind the yarn too close to the end of the bobbin. It tangles in the shuttle.

I’ve moved the loom to a different room; carpet underneath instead of wood. I like this section too.

Green zigzag. Also, I have installed daylight LED lights above me. At night, I can take photos with really great color. Daylight will still wash out photos.

I saw a picture of a way to get multiple colors into a section, using just the bobbins. This was unenjoyable. I want weaving to be enjoyable. I ended up having to rewind two bobbins, and actually cut out a snarl in one of them.

I don’t think it actually looks that good either. I could do a neater job, and I initially thought to do this for several more rows, but I just wanted to be done. So I was.

Inlaying a second color above the weft to get blocks of a different color (at top of photo)? I LIKE this. This was fun. This is definitely a success.

There is still more of this warp. I have three more weaving projects planned already, and I was hoping to start the next one this month. It could happen, maybe? And I have a couple of active beading projects.